Harlech beach is a 4-mile sweep of clean, golden sand surrounded by beautiful countryside. Set in Eryri, or Snowdonia National Park, the dunes that run behind the north end of the beach are part of Morfa Harlech Nature Reserve and the only growing dune system in Wales.
The constant supply of sand blows inland from the north of Barmouth Bay having been deposited there by rivers that have washed it down from the mountains of Snowdonia. The dunes nearest the beach are almost bare with just a few patches of marram grass, but further inland they support a rich variety of wildlife. In spring and summer look out for three-coloured dune pansies, yellow flag irises, pyramidal orchids, bee orchids, and maiden pinks, while in autumn and winter gentians, lady’s tresses, as well as fungi can be found.
The dunes are also home to several species of insects such as six-spot burnet moths, common blue, small copper, and peacock butterflies, mining bees, and solitary wasps. Look out too for sand lizards, otters, and water voles.
Morfa Harlech Nature Reserve offers excellent bird watching opportunities, particularly in winter when flocks of whooper swans, wigeons, pintails, and mallards arrive, and curlews, dunlins, sanderlings, and oystercatchers can be spotted feeding on the mudflats. In spring, skylarks, whitethroats, sedge warblers, and stonechats breed in the dunes, redshanks and lapwings are found on the saltmarsh, while ringed plovers and turnstones nest on the beach itself. Choughs and hen harriers can also be seen in the skies above.
On a rocky crag overlooking the dunes stands Harlech Castle, built in the 13th century by Edward I during his invasion of Wales. Over the centuries it played an important part in several wars including the War of the Roses and the English Civil war. Classed as a World Heritage Site, it is considered by UNESCO as one of ‘the finest examples of late 13th century and early 14th century military architecture in Europe’.
The castle is open to the public and is accessed by a floating drawbridge. There is plenty to explore within the walls and the views from the top are spectacular. There are information boards to help understand the history of the castle, and a gift shop and café.
Swimming at Harlech beach is generally safe on calm days although there is no lifeguard patrol and in the summer months watch out for jellyfish that can be found in the sea and washed up on the beach. Leatherback turtles cross the Atlantic to feed on the jellyfish and although they are shy can sometimes be spotted in the water. In 1988, the largest leatherback turtle ever recorded was found dead on Harlech beach. Weighing a massive 961.1 kg and measuring 2.91 in length, the specimen is now in display in the National Museum Cardiff.
The beach is also used by surfers and kite surfers, in particular beginners, who take advantage of the exposed beach break and consistent clean waves, but be aware of strong currents and large breaking waves.
The remains of a military aircraft can occasionally be seen beneath the sand of Harlech beach. Known as the Maid of Harlech, the Lockheed P-38 Lightning crashed in 1942 when its pilot got into difficulties during a training exercise. The largely intact wreckage has been given protection for its historic and archaeological interest, and disturbing the site carries heavy penalties.
Royal St David’s Golf Course overlooks the beach. Established in 1884 it is renowned as one of the best traditional links courses in the world with undulating fairways, fast greens, and punishing roughs. Every hole offers breath-taking view of the Snowdonia mountain range, although due to the growth of the sand dunes over the years the sea can only be seen from the back tee at the 16th.
Just yards from the beach lies Min-Y-Don Holiday Home Park with spacious level pitches for touring caravans and holiday homes. Park facilities include a children’s play area, football pitch, gym, bike track, laundrette, library, and free Wi-fi.
There are few facilities on the beach, but plenty of shops, restaurants, and cafes can be found in Harlech. Near the holiday park is a car park and toilets run by Gwynedd Council. From here a public footpath runs directly to the beach.
